The ride in to Stewart on 37A yesterday was a gem. I can’t even imagine what it would have been like on a sunny day. The skies were overcast with low clouds but it was still amazing riding along a raging creek with views of snow-capped mountains, glaciers and waterfalls. And that was just the appetizer for the day!
I left New Hazelton not so early to dark stormy clouds and a slightly mist in the chilly air. The lows have been in the 40’s overnight so the morning starts have been quiet cool. I fully expected to get wet but it never happened thankfully. A few hours of riding brought me to the 37/37A junction. My plan was to ride into Stewart and then cross into Hyder, Alaska to see the Salmon Glacier. I stopped for a break at the gas station/shop at the Junction and pulled up next to a fully loaded 1200 GSA. After taking care of business in the restroom I came back out to Lee who was the owner of the GSA. He was on a month-long hall pass from his life in Seattle exploring the great white north – something he gets to do every summer. He was also heading to Stewart so we agreed to ride together – beneficial for me as he has ridden this area many times.
We arrived into Stewart mid-afternoon after the amazing ride in on 37A. Lee didn’t have plans for the night yet so while he checked availability at the King Edward Hotel, I went to check in at the B&B House Austria that I had reserved before I left New Hazelton. Stewart is a tiny town with limited options so I wanted to be sure I had a place to stay. Camping is always an option but camping in the cold and rain wasn’t appealing to me when I woke up that particular morning so pre-booked a sure thing.
I threw my duffel into my room and then re-joined Lee in front of the King Edward where we started our ride to the glacier. The ride to Hyder is only a few kilometers and strangely there is no US customs crossing over – only Canadian customs coming back into Stewart. I read where this is the only US border that is not protected by US customs and immigration. Don’t tell Trump the Canadians are freely invading the town of Hyder, AK – population 87!
Soon after passing through Hyder the road turned to dirt for the 20 mile ride up to the glacier. Again no shortage of amazing scenery! Bubbling creeks, wide glacial rivers and snow-capped peaks around every turn. The glacial viewing area boasts a commanding view overlooking the glacier snaking through the canyon. There were also a half-dozen more glaciers peaking through other side canyons around the mighty Salmon Glacier – a pretty amazing area! The dirt road continues about another 3 miles or so past an abandoned mine (reason for the road) to a wooden bridge crossing a creek. This is where we turned around but the road continues off into the distance. The bridge was as far as Lee had ventured in the past so we didn’t know where this unmarked road ends. Hyder is water locked from the rest of Alaska so definitely doesn’t go anywhere resembling civilization. On the way back past the observation area we ran into 3 more adventure bikes carrying 3 couples riding two up from Monterray, Mexico on a couple of BMW’s and a Triumph. They were also staying the King Edward hotel in Stewart. And then to top off the day I had my first bear sighting on the way down to Hyder. A cub scampering across the road into the brush. Up to that point had only seen the scat droppings along the road.
We returned to Stewart around 8:30pm and got to the restaurant at the King Edward just in time – they close at 9pm along with all the restaurants in Stewart. The Halibut fish and chips were amazing! We also ran into a couple of other ADVrider inmates Trasch and fjmartin in front of the Edward. Trasch is heading south but fjmartin is on the way up so may ride with him for a bit as he is also solo.
If it was sunny I was planning to go back up to the glacier, but sadly it is still socked in. I’m probably just going to head back to the Cassiar and continue north. Hopefully I can get a second day of staying dry!
Obligitory bike with glacier pic…
Lee from Seattle…
Fellow moto travelers…
This was a great post, very well written. Thanknyou so much for sharing.
GrizzLEE would be my guy. I am glad you two had a chance to hook up on the ride up to the salmon glacier. Itnreally is stunning and I have been desperate to make my next visit on a bike!