I arrived to the start of the Canol early afternoon and rode the extra few kilometers past the fork to Johnson’s Crossing to gas up and get some info on the road conditions. Word had it due to the wet spring the road had washboarded out early this year and had also developed more potholing than usual. She also said bear activity along the road was at a high level so be prepared for that. I do have my bear spray and airhorn riding with me in the tank bag for quick access if I were to encounter an overly aggressive bear out in the road while riding. I also keep them with me in the tent while sleeping. I hope I never have to use either.
My plan was to ride up to and cross the Campbell Highway to Ross River (start of the North Canol which leads to the NWT border), gas up and ride back down camping somewhere in the middle. There is a mandatory ferry at Ross River to get across the Pelly River. The North Canol is less maintained and more remote. I really would like to ride this road too, but a little nervous to do it by myself. The South Canol is about 140 miles so that makes 280 round trip. I set off at about 2pm with clouds building in the north – right were I was heading. The road started out cut through thick forest with mild bends and sometimes sharp undulations making the riding interesting. The washboards started right away so I had to find the right speed to cause the least vibrations. I had started out with earplugs off so I could hear a little better (if something were to be growling and coming at me from behind!), but soon stopped and put the plugs back in. My motorcycle rattles so much it sounds like it’s coming apart and I can’t stand to listen to it. Makes me too nervous that it’s going to break down or fall apart and I start getting into my own head too much. I was already nervous just doing this by by myself as it was. I passed a car coming the other way in the first couple of miles but then didn’t see another until about 50 miles in. There was a road crew doing some work on the road so I stopped and chatted with them for a bit. They said they saw two grizzlies that morning and to keep aware. This added to my nervousness going on inside my head. When you’re riding alone there is nothing to do except enjoy the space and think random thoughts. I really prefer trying to keep the thoughts positive but sometimes, like I said, you get inside your own head and start thinking nonsense. I eventually stopped the music and put in my coffee break Spanish podcast lessons. It helped me to concentrate on something besides the road and stop thinking terrible thoughts like what if the motorcycle breaks down or what if I drop it and can’t get it back up again.
It was not too much later that I did the latter….I dropped the bike. I was stopping for a picture and while flicking the kickstand up with my left foot it slipped in the gravel and I started tipping left. I initially tried to save it but once the beast starts going over with a (relatively) full tank of gas it is almost impossible to stop. I made one attempt to heave it up from the ground still loaded and felt a tweak in my back so instantly stopped. I would have to unload everything. I still hadn’t seen another vehicle since the first couple of miles and the crew I had stopped to talk to said they were heading south when they finished up so couldn’t count on them coming by to help.
The bags and right side box were easy to get off but the left box was pinned by the bike laying on its side. I gave another heave ho and again felt the tweak in the back. I was starting to get a bit worried and looked around to see camping options. The area was thick with high brush so not my first choice for camping. No way to see any bears approaching. I found a log and was able to lift the bike enough to get it under the cylinder which gave me some room to remove the left box. Now the bike was as light as it was going to be without taking off the gas tank (which I was prepared to do if I had to). I decided I was going to have to risk my back and just give it my best shot. The more times you try the harder it is each time as you lose strength and energy with each attempt. I tried a technique I saw on line once which involves getting on my knees and pushing up from the lower frame of the bike. I let out a scream and gave it everything I had pushing upward. And then I damn near pushed it all the way over to drop it on the other side. I grabbed the handlebar to keep it from going over and just did save it – but at the expense of my back. I felt that familiar feeling and knew I had thrown it out. I gingerly reloaded the bike and with each item I lifted, it resulted in sharp pain. Throwing a leg over the seat also was difficult and painful, I decided to just get to the government campground that was about 30 miles north and just call it a night. The ride to the campground was a bit painful but I could ride and function well enough from a safety standpoint so all was good.
Bending, stooping, setting up camp and getting in and out of my tent was also painful but doable. I took 4 Tylenol and made some noodle soup for dinner and stayed up to watch the sun set over the range to the west. It wasn’t fully dark until almost 11:15pm. I woke up a couple of times and thought I heard rustling in the bush but wasn’t sure if it was my mind planing tricks on me or an actual animal. I had my bear spray about 6 inches from my head just in case.
I woke up with the sun about 4:30am, made some coffee, broke camp and loaded the bike. After yesterday’s episode I am now super careful and aware of my footing when mounting and dismounting on and off the bike. I made it to Ross River for gas without any drama passing several beautiful lakes along the way. Quiet Lake was especially good as the sky was blue reflecting off the lake. Five hours after gassing up at Ross I was back to Johnson’s Crossing making it up and back without getting eaten by a bear or crashing the bike. I saw lots of bear skat on the road but didn’t see a single bear. I did see 4 moose in the distance drinking at one of the lakes. Glad I brought my good camera with zoom lens to get some shots of the moose!
I made my way to Whitehorse and got a room at the Canada’s Best Value Inn – a super dive motel but one of the cheapest in expensive Whitehorse. I stayed there last time up here and knew they had a nice dirt lot in the back of the property to do bike maintenance. I was due to change my fluids so rode to Walmart and Canadian Tire to get oil and supplies. Got the fluids changed fairly quickly (considering my back is still a bit screwed up) and then went out for a celebratory pizza down the street – veggie pizza of course! The next morning I stopped by The Deli (fantastic European style sandwich/shop and grabbed a Thai noodle salad and some Perigees to go and packed them away for lunch on the road.
This morning I am in Beaver Creek just east of the Alaska border and also the most westerly town in Canada. My back is still hurting – but I’ve experienced much worse and function somewhat normally. I just get that sharp pain when bending or twisting the wrong way – which is pretty much any way I bend or twist! I’m debating on taking a short day and camping in Tok. Eagle Claw Motorcycle Campground is a really cool spot I camped at last year. I plan to stop at Fast Eddy’s in Tok for lunch and will make the call from there. Fast Eddy’s is a must stop in Tok – the food is fantastic and they have really fast free wifi!